SOUTHBOUND: JOURNEY THROUGH THE LENS OF RYAN GLOVER
Photography By Ryan Glover
We travelled 3 weeks around the South Island in our van. Most of our time was spent hopping from costal town to costal town. It was mid April and the warmer days were still in abundance. Slight chills in the evening were frequent but forgiving for what the South Island can usually succumb to. 3 weeks on the road with life belongings all nestled into a small compartment in the back of a car is an adventure in itself. The daily bed making routine, the suitcase shuffle, the chilly bin restocks, its all part of the fun.
Living in the north, we took the ferry across the Able Tasman straight, a four hour journey that I would have easily done all over again. We spent our hours on the top deck, dolphin spotting, coffee consuming and chatting to peoples from all walks of life. Your bubble is indeed broken on the high waters. I spoke with a man who had recently switched his entire home off grid and bought Tesla packs for his house. A boomer by age, but not by definition, he was a cut above the rest.
Travelling through, we had no destinations set, a few stays to visit in between the rides, but most of the journey unplanned. Kaikoura bought the most enjoyment, with 4ft offshore waves, a point break above the rest. We spent two nights here surfing in the days and eating at the local pub, befriending a few of the dwellers in the evenings. The pub of choice The Pier Hotel, was first built in circa 1885. This 122 year old pub has all the charm and character you’d expect it to have. Old photographs of historic moments don the walls, and the menu is a quintessential kiwi array or hearty meats and roast veggies. We drank, sang and belly laughed and toasted to our first few nights on the road around the indoor fire.
If you are planning to drive around the south island, be in for long car rides. Have a playlist, have at least 2 podcasts series at the ready. Long car rides also mean side road stops are a must. There were places we had on our bucket list plugged in sporadically along our trip. One of them being the stunning Lake Rotoiti, listed as one of the top 10 things to see in Nelson. A no brainer for us as we were travelling through the region on our day off. Crisp air and mountainous views provided a few serendipitous moments. There is a Kiwi sanctuary walk here, for those who wish to try their luck at spotting one in the wild.
We visited a small seaside town, hidden behind the hills of Sumner, it felt earrily empty but peaceful nonetheless. There is a bay down here that surfers visit when the waves are right. We ventured the the end of the shore and pictured lives of people living in the hilltop seaside bach’s. Dreaming up our own retirement plans.
The South Island has so many nooks to pull over to gawk at it’s beauty in, it’s hardly fair to say one is better than the next. We were travelling over long distances, trying to take it all in. Before our arrival at our stay in Kereru Retreat, we stopped by the Rakia Gorge. There are longer trail walks you can do to experience the whole buffet, but we opted to visit the rivers edge for a quiet moment. A pull over stop between drives. The sheer power of the river flowing was an awesome sight.
Best time to visit is well… anytime really. It was completely empty when we arrived, this could partly be due to the lack of international tourist post covid era, but it was early afternoon and not a soul insight. I somewhat relish in these moments as they hold more power over you. I’ve always loved to move slow and take my time. Without anyone around, the moment was ours to hold for as long as we wished.
The South Island is a place where the light lies low on the horizon. Its beauty feels untouched at certain moments, as if your footprints might be the first there. Being a traveller in your own country can feel odd at times, but discovering new places that were once missed is always worth it. Missing all the main tourist attractions means you get to experience the real New Zealand the New Zealand local’s see through their lens. We knew this trip would be easy on the wallet, but wealthy in memories and we were not disappointed.
Aotearoa is worth stopping for.
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